Feature of the Month
Singularly Sensational
Trapiche’s market presence in Nova Scotia long centered on its value-centric “Oak Cask Malbec” (now known in other markets as Malbec Reserve) but with the introduction of the Broquel line to the market a few years ago the winery brought interest and attention to its line-up of premium brands which now includes a Single Vineyard Series for its best Malbec. The 2007s (which represent only the fifth vintage of the line) have been recently released in the Canadian market.
Trapiche’s Single Vineyard Malbecs represent the selection of the three best Malbec wines of each harvest as determined by their winemaking team; led by the highly respected Daniel Pi. While arguments can be made for and against the concept of single vineyards in terms of creating the most complex wines, they do provide the opportunity for the finest expression of terroir.
Carla Castorino of Trapiche, along with their local agent, Mike Plume of Vins Philippe Dandurand Wines recently invited me and fellow wine scribes Craig Pinhey and Sean Wood to sample a range of Trapiche wines including their recently released Single Vineyard Malbecs.
2007 Vina Adolfo Ahumada – Villa Bastias Single Vineyard Malbec (NSLC Port of Wines, $42.65)
This ranked high on my tasting sheet in the I’ll like it later category. It had youthful oak notes, winter spice and a mineral element on the nose. The palate had plumy fruit and an edge in the finish in the form of some firm tannin. I liked its austerity relative to the other wines and while less immediately enjoyable compared to the Vina Fausta Orellana de Escobar it should be interesting to see how it develops over time. Buy it for the cellar.
2007 Vina Domingo Sarmieto – Las Consulta Single Vineyard Malbec (NSLC Port of Wines, $42.65)
This wine was somewhere in between the Vina Adolfo Ahumada and the Vina Fausto Orellana de Escobar in style. My notes suggest some woody spice and leafy tones on the nose, some nice juicy dark berry fruit on the palate and a pleasant warmth in the finish. Not overly opulent or austere; but quite well balanced. Buy it for a special dinner.
2007 Vina Fausto Orellana de Escobar – La Consulta Single Vineyard Malbec (NSLC Port of Wines, $42.65)
This wine gets the highest Parker points of the lot and no wonder as it definitely has the richest fruit character of the three. It had a warm spicy, cocoa and black liquorice nose, lots of big fruit on the palate and some good structure in the finish. It’s a big wine now that will flesh out more with age.